Any first impression here begins not at the hotel, but at the airport. Upon arrival, you’re guided into a tricked out open-air vehicle for a 90-minute drive to the resort. You’ll pass through small villages and towns, rugged terrain and lush landscapes. A young coconut has been prepared for your hydration, along with two cakes to satisfy any hunger pains.

Finally, at the top of a hill, you’ll turn a corner and see the Nihi sign, flanked by the most beautiful row of pink and white ​​bougainvillaea. Past the sign and at the bottom of the hill you can see the ocean and Nihiwatu beach, bidding you welcome. Driving down to the property, you feel like you’ve gained entry to a secret world.

You finally arrive at the property, greeted by smiling staff members. We arrived midday and after a refreshing welcome drink, we were offered lunch at the Nio Beach and Pool Club, the sun-soaked daytime dining spot just steps from the beach. Shoes off, toes dancing in the sand as we feasted on Indonesian specialtiies and cold smoothies, it was the perfect welcome. 

Once done, the two guest relations officers assigned to us, Dus and Petrus, gave us a quick tour before we adjourned to our villa.

Nihi Sumba offers a wide range of luxury accommodations, ranging from 1- to 4-bedroom villas and a special “owner’s estate” that comprises six villas and can sleep up to 15 people. Every villa offers breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean and Nihiwatu Beach and has a private pool. 

All villas boast thatched roofs and marry luxury and nature seamlessly and gorgeously.  Each villa is slightly different and we noticed the pool shapes and sizes were as well. You won’t feel any jealousy here though. Even the smallest one-bedroom villa offers you 158 square metres of space. 

While we stayed in a fantastic one-bedroom villa conveniently located just steps away from both Ombak restaurant and the Boathouse, having perused the Nihi website and stolen glimpses at fellow guests’ accommodations, I would love to return with my whole family and stay in the three-bedroom Mamole Tree House, literally built around the trunk of a tree. Three separate but conjoining villas punctuate this breathtaking, raised jungle property. Of course, it comes with its own spectacular infinity pool and each villa has its own additional tent-style room for guests who enjoy sleeping close to nature outdoors.

Nihi Sumba is also an inclusive resort, and one of the perks we enjoyed was daily laundry service. A small but fabulous thing that far too many hoteliers charge way too much for. 

Where to begin? Nihi boasts so many amazing aspects to wax lyrical about. 

Let’s start with surfing perhaps, since this is what put Nihi on the map originally. As mentioned earlier, Nihi Sumba is home to one of the world’s most sought-after waves, famously known as “God’s Left” or “Occy’s Left” in homage to Australian surfing legend Mark Occhilupo. Revered for its unique characteristics, this wave offers a thrilling challenge, even for seasoned surfers.

The wave is highly responsive to a range of factors—tides, size, power, and direction—making it tricky to master. Getting the perfect ride requires timing and skill, but those who succeed are rewarded with a heart-pounding two-to-three-hundred-metre ride through rippling walls and powerful barrels.

Beginners or first-timers can still experience the thrill with lessons at Nihiwatu Beach, where the conditions often accommodate less experienced surfers. For gentler swells, Coconut Cove nearby provides a more relaxed setting, perfect for a leisurely half-day of light surfing paired with breakfast or lunch, before heading back to the resort.

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Horses are another big draw here. Horse culture is actually deeply woven into the fabric of Sumba’s culture, and at Nihi’s Sandalwood Stables, equestrian enthusiasts can find the perfect getaway. The stables offer a handpicked team of local sport horses, ready to take guests on a range of experiences—whether it’s a sunset ride along the beach or a scenic journey through the island’s rich landscapes.

Two of the most memorable include the Sunset and Sunrise Beach Ride and Swimming with the Horses. We noticed the latter was especially popular, especially when taking advantage of the services of the resort’s resident professional photographer. 

Lastly, we can’t not talk about Nihi’s incredible spa, which is actually not on property! The spa is situated on a remote cliff overlooking its own private beach. Guests get there via either an hour-and-a-half trek, a leisurely horseback ride, or (for lazy people like yours truly) by car. Once there, you’ll find the spa reception, treatment rooms, an infinity pool, and a “secret” (honeymoon) villa. This part of the hotel has no wifi or phone reception, so you are truly cut off from the world, not that you’ll care given how strikingly beautiful the area is.

You have the option here of spending half a day or the full day. Half day spa-goers get to enjoy three to five treatments, which are seamlessly woven together into one holistic, healing and blissful experience. 

Of course, some treatments, like massages, can be had at the main property. But any visit to Nihi Sumba that doesn’t include their Spa Safari just doesn’t feel complete.

The hotel also offers other activities, ranging from yoga to padel. Your guest relations officers will help you make any arrangements to suit your interests.

As mentioned, Nihi is an all inclusive property, and that means that all meals and all non-alcoholic beverages are included in your stay. There is also a daily happy hour in which the hotel shares cocktails, wines and beers. 

Breakfast and dinner are taken at Ombak, a beautiful elevated restaurant with a large outside deck, cantilevered over the ocean, offering stunning views. The menu features Indonesian and Western dishes, both comforting and creative, and also healthy. There is a good variety of options for vegetarians, vegans, or guests who just would prefer healthier, cleaner dishes

Lunch is at Nio, the pool and beach club. The menu is similarly casual and offers both Asian and Western dishes. Enjoy everything from a smash burger to a nasi goreng, fish tacos, gulai udang, a wood fired pizza or a salad made with organic greens from Nihi’s gardens. 

Once a week, the property hosts a family meal—a buffet dinner for all guests so they can mingle and spend more time together. The only caveat is that the dress code is all white.

Lastly, Nihi also offers, by request, a Japanese omakase experience in a specially built, tiny and almost hidden kappo restaurant called Kaboku. This does incur extra charges, but Japanese food lovers may want to consider this option.

When Claude Graves opened Nihiwatu in 1988, he also established the Sumba Foundation. Thankfully, Burch and McBride have not only preserved this charitable institution, they have aided in its growth, and appointed Graves to be the Foundation’s managing director. 

The Foundation focuses on improving the lives of the Sumbanese people through sustainable initiatives. It addresses critical needs such as access to clean water, healthcare, education, and the reduction of malaria. With an approach that empowers the community to help themselves, the foundation supports over 45,000 people daily and impacts hundreds of thousands more. Their work is a model of collaboration between tourism and philanthropy, having gained recognition for its innovative and lasting contributions to the island.

Guests are encouraged to not just donate but get involved in programmes. In fact, many guests return year after year, not just to enjoy the luxuries that Nihi Sumba provides, but also because they have become involved in the Foundation’s projects.

In all, our trip to Nihi was incredible. What Burch and McBride have done in transforming this “beach lodge” into one of the world’s most unique and luxurious destinations, without sacrificing what it stands for, is incredible. 

It is no wonder that Nihi Sumba is so highly regarded by international media and travel experts. It is certainly one of the most exquisite and special places we have ever visited, and hope you will get to go there yourselves one day.

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