Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, the designer duo behind their eponymous Indian haute couture label, explain their process. “Understanding a Bollywood star’s style and dressing preferences is the first step in dressing them. We first determine the occasion and their goals. We next draw sketches and show them to the stylist, going over fabric swatches and embroidery designs while making sure everything matches our brand colours. Through collaboration, we may fine-tune the design before implementing bespoke fits and finishing touches.”

Collaboration—that’s the key word in this process and it’s not just collaboration with the artists, but also with their stylists. In Bollywood, where mostly big-name stylists such as Anaita Shroff Adajania, Rhea Kapoor, Shaleena Nathani and others, rule the roost, this means fostering a good relationship between the stylist and designer based on trust can get the designers repeat business and wider recognition.

In India, Bollywood holds immense influence over fashion and lifestyle, so dressing celebrities—and maintaining good relations with them—has an undeniably positive impact on designers.  

Historically speaking, Bollywood costume designers have been able to cement themselves as the leading fashion stalwarts in the country. One such success story is Manish Malhotra, who started as a costume designer in the 1990s, then shot to fame as he earned a loyal client base among Bollywood A-listers like Shah Rukh Khan and Kareena Kapoor.

Mehta, who founded her label in 2009 and debuted at India Fashion Week in 2013, knows the importance of having prominent actors as clientele—and her label’s Instagram page proudly showcases all the stars she has worked with. It’s a conscious business decision. “When people see Bollywood stars wearing my designs, it enhances their trust in the brand. This not only makes the brand more visible but also strengthens the audience’s confidence in it, ultimately increasing the brand’s value,” she says.

Mehta, Gandhi and Khanna have all been able to make a name for themselves through their signature styles—Mehta for her hand-embroidered mirror-work ensembles, and Gandhi and Khanna for their Indian-wear-meets-western-couture aesthetics. These signature styles have earned them a roster of Bollywood stars, but among them, they have their favourite muses.

For Gandhi and Khanna, it’s fashion maverick and Bollywood’s It-boy Ranveer Singh. “Working with Ranveer Singh has been one of my favourite memories, especially towards the beginning of his career. It has been extremely amazing to work with him; he genuinely exemplifies the spirit of daring and inventiveness. He will always be our inspiration, and we adore dressing him and making unique designs that capture his exuberant nature.” Singh’s willingness to experiment has left its stamp on the DNA of the Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna label, pushing the brand to explore bolder styles, unique fabrics and innovative silhouettes that resonate with Singh’s energetic vibe.

Meanwhile, for Mehta, it’s a recent look that she created for Alia Bhatt for the Ambani pre-wedding celebrations that stands out. “It was a stunning rose-gold tissue lehenga saree paired with a bralette and a lavender Banarasi dupatta. The outfit featured intricate hand embroidery and took countless hours to craft,” she says.

Ultimately, it’s this dedication to their craft and the ability to make the stars truly shine that make these designers stand out. And through this, they are bringing the best of Indian design to the global audience—because who better to show off your design to the world than a Bollywood star?

NOW READ

Should individuals be free to wear what they want, regardless of societal expectations or dress codes?

How Calvin Klein made denim and underwear hot items through clever marketing

Inside Robert Wun’s triumphant fashion show at the Hong Kong Palace Museum